Word: pizzas
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...admits that the company was never primarily concerned with flavor. "Our core strength for 50 years is delivery convenience," he told me. And it's not as if a subpar product was doing that much damage to its business; the chain is still firmly entrenched as the No. 2 pizza source in the world (behind Pizza Hut). The fact is that the Domino's reboot isn't that great. I just had one. It's slightly softer and greasier now, in an enjoyable way. Whatever. The point is not the taste itself but the fact that Domino's actually cares...
Have they ever. In truly pizza-crazed cities like New York, San Francisco and Chicago, fanatical artisans vie with one another to see who can be most slavishly faithful to the principles of Vera Pizza Napoletana, the final word in pizza purity. But even in less food-obsessed American cities, various brick-oven restaurants compete for the approval of a fickle, pizza-geek public that looks closely at everything from the sourcing of the fior de latte to the presence of "tip sag" issues with the crust. A recent post at Slice, the king of pizza blogs, states, "The crust...
...large are the same tasteless gray pucks now as they were during the Ford Administration; they just have better commercials and more toppings. Hot dogs are still exactly the same as they were during the Korean War. Nor has gnarly, underseasoned and overcrusted fried chicken improved much. But pizza is growing and breathing; it seems to have a special place in America. Maybe it's because pizza's the most domesticated of all our dishes, meant to be eaten at home. (Domino's, Papa John's and the other delivery outfits don't even have tables in their stores...
Historically, the fact that pizza was cheap and convenient frequently overshadowed how bad it was. But in the same way that you can't ever look at a Quarter Pounder quite the same way after you've eaten a Shake Shack burger in New York, or Taco Bell after you've had the real thing in East L.A., even brief exposure to good pizza ruins you for the likes of Domino's or Pizza Hut. There's a night-and-day technical difference between the crisp but pliable, barely yielding quality of fresh pizza crust, especially with the telltale little...
Companies like Domino's have usually defended themselves against criticism by dismissing it as localized and élitist, the self-serving yelps of New Yorkers and New Havenites who think they alone can make good pizza. But take a look at Alan Richman's recent roundup of the top pizzas in America in GQ. New York and Chicago are represented, but so are Detroit, Phoenix, Boston, Providence, R.I., and Port Chester, N.Y. - hardly bastions of food-snob chauvinism. (See pictures of what the world eats, Part...