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...decades after the Wall that cut through Berlin's heart came tumbling down, the city is once again a happening place, drawing a host of international designers, writers, architects, musicians and visual artists like Grazioli, some just to visit, many to stay. The influx is transforming the city. "Yes, artists from all over the world are now living in Berlin and, some nights, they all seemed to end up on my living-room sofa," says Jeffrey Eugenides, the American Pulitzer Prize-winning novelist who lived in Berlin from 1999 to 2003 and goes back every summer. "It's a much...
...During the Cold War era it was a magnet for young West German gays, punks and pacifists who got out of doing military service by moving there. They remain an important part of the culture: there are still squats in derelict buildings, and a vibrant, semilegal club scene. "The place still has an outlawish feel," says James Docwra, who works for an agency that books DJs. But in the transition from hippy to hip, some of the anarchy of earlier times has gone, particularly since the government moved from Bonn in the 1990s. Birkenstocks have made way for handmade...
...this sometimes jarring juxtaposition of old and new is emerging an ethos of environmental correctness; this is a place where seemingly every second grocery store stocks only organic produce in a minimum of recyclable packaging, where new Mercedes owners apologize that they didn't buy a hybrid, and where the most used adjective is the word sustainable. There's even an acronym for this attitude, dreamed up by a consultant: LOHAS, which stands for Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability...
...early 1990s was Tresor, a subterranean space near Potsdamer Platz. The club shut down when the area was turned into a giant shopping mall. The Love Parade, an annual techno festival that drew as many as a million people to the streets of Berlin every summer, took place for the last time there in 2006 because of a dispute over who should pay for picking up the mounds of trash. "There's a difficult relationship between the city and the club scene," says Michael Matuschek, who worked as a DJ at Tresor during its glory years. But the clubbers...
...free time to see one another," Andorlini says. "In Milan if you're not working at 8 p.m. you're not successful. I feel like I'm on holiday." The conversation quickly turns to comparisons. "Berlin is like Paris in the '30s," Andorlini says. "It's a place where artists gather and things spring out of nothing." Grazioli isn't so sure. "It's more like New York in the '60s," he says. "All those abandoned lofts in SoHo." (See a TIME video on the the words - and deeds - that brought down the Berlin Wall...