Word: poiret
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...standard of style in this dining car is punishingly high. Just inside the entrance, the incarnadine exclamation of a Poiret dress laps a female figure like ripples on a lakeshore. Next to it, a dress from the House of Cybes, all shifting shades of blue with cascades of twinkling pearls, looks as if the stars had begun to shine in the afternoon sky. The roseate elegance of another dress showered with embroidered petals could seem, to the mannequin at the door, either an invitation or a challenge. To anyone looking in from outside, the dress draws the eye instantly...
Christian Dior created not only the New Look but a new silhouette every six months. Mme. Gres has been turning out her gently flowing dresses pretty much the same way for more than a half-century. Paul Poiret, the first celebrity couturier, left nothing undesigned, not only what a woman wore but everything she touched. His spiritual heir, Ralph Lauren, clothes not only whole milieus but fantasies as well: the dream of belonging, whether to a club or a board or the ski crowd at Vail. Giorgio Armani influenced the way almost every designer thinks by adapting to classic dictates...
...Cage aux Folles (literally "Cage of Crazies"; in French slang, "Cage of Gays") is based on Jean Poiret's farce of the same title, which ran in Paris from 1973 to 1980; and it resembles the film starring Ugo Tognazzi and Michel Serrault, which became the most successful foreign-language movie ever shown in the U.S., grossing more than $40 million...
...which by Vreeland's chronology developed in the last half of the 19th century and ended on the eve of the first World War, were opulent and imperial. They may have been the most extravagant fashion since the court of the Sun King. Worth, Doucet, Callot Soeurs, Poiret: the great fashion houses are all represented with gowns and dresses that seem to challenge, in some cases even exceed, the outer limits of craftsmanship. Who would have thought it possible for a bodice to be shaped in such a way, or for silk to fall so unhurriedly, like a dove...
There is no attempt to describe or delineate a house style, to demonstrate how a gown by Worth might be designed or constructed differently from a gown by Paquin. Paul Poiret, one of the first modernist dress designers, is represented in this show by five pieces, but anything that made Poiret daringly innovative is smothered here in the general ambience. In this great age of squeeze, tie and whalebone, Poiret even made dresses to be worn without corsets, but this idea, and all others, goes unremarked by the exhibitors. They busy themselves instead compiling identifications for each garment that list...