Word: polenta
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...cooked perfectly, medium rare, and served atop a savory potato and wild mushroom cake, accompanied by a sharp rocquefort sauce and tangy onion marmalade. Wilted greens lightened the deliciously rich dish. Veal Brisket ($23) was entirely devoid of grease without being desiccated, matched by soft roast pearl onion polenta. Sliced, cooked pear in mustard sauce and lightly fried onion rings rested on a light, sweet, smoky sauce. Again, this entree far outmatched the appetizers. Though the preparation was complicated, the dish didn't evince the same schizophrenia as the appetizers. The tastes were balanced and fused comfortably into one another...
...healthy portion of shredded fennel, red cabbage, and black olives. Lightly dressed in vinaigrette, the salad tops a circular "pancake" of ground garbanzo beans. The pancake is strangely savory with a crisp and lightly fried exterior and a moist and tender interior. The coarse, granular texture was reminiscent of polenta, though the waiter swore that garbanzo beans were the sole ingredient. This is a star appetizer, iconoclastic...
...sits the couple's decanter collection. This one is Danish, 1890s; these two are French, 1920s. Duke Ellington's jazz floats from the bedroom, and Sam's latest purchase, a gold jacquard smoking jacket, hangs behind the door. Caitlin, an ad copywriter for Bon Appetit, stirs the polenta, while Sam, who works with a caterer favored by fashion shoots, serves goat cheese on pizza bianca. The two have a dinner party at least three times a month. "Never pasta and red sauce," chides Samuel, who prefers stuffed trout or nicoise salad...
This year's pamphlet announced a pasta bar at every lunch and dinner, a weekly Chickwich entree, expanded Sunday brunch offerings and 120 new items, such as polenta with grilled vegetables...
Sadly, in the food revolution as in everything else, the poor are getting stuck with the greasy end of the stick. The affluent like to gorge on the kinds of high-fiber, heart-smart foods that were once relegated to the global peasantry: polenta, lentils, kale, bulgur wheat. Meanwhile, the fat-filled, heart-dumb foods once favored by kings and courtiers have been sedimenting down the socioeconomic scale. And, oh, the joys of nouveau low-income food, in its ever more wanton and promiscuous forms -- fries topped with melted cheese spread, nachos topped with everything, burritos buried in sour cream...