Word: portabella
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Dates: during 1998-1998
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...self-respecting Southern restaurant would shudder at the thought of portabella mushrooms and goat cheese. Any self-respecting Southern restaurant would put mesclun greens on its menu only under the very threat of death. However, this is Cambridge, where Ralph Waldo Emerson proclaimed John Brown a saint for his raid on Harper's Ferry and where the Mason-Dixon feels about as far south as the equator. Around here, good Southern cooking is as hard to find as the old Stars and Bars. But who really cares, when the result of a fusion of Southern and yuppie cuisine...
...every vegetable on the menu. Arranged artfully on the giant platter were mashed spiced yams, mashed new potatoes, light and crispy fried green tomatoes, pencilthin sweet potato fries, black-eyed peas topping cheesy grits with tomato relish, and the inevitable nods to yuppies everywhere: mesclun greens with vinaigrette and portabella mushrooms roasted with goat cheese and walnut stuffing. Gourmandized Southern has never been so tasty, sopped up with the coarse, hot, freshly-baked cornbread muffins. Other appetizers include an elegant, but not especially interesting, mesclun salad, and a side order of Hoppin Shavonne: smooth fluffy cheese grits and black-eyed...
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