Word: posen
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...Posen already plays their game like an old hand. A lifelong New Yorker, he has networked more tightly than Kevlar. He went to the same high school as celebrity-loving painter Julian Schnabel's daughters Stella and Lola. Stella is now his stylist--"and my muse," he says. At an art opening, he met Interview magazine editor Ingrid Sischy, possibly the most connected woman in New York City, who in turn introduced him to powerhouse publicist and show producer Ed Filipowski of KCD (clients include Tom Ford and Versace), who agreed to represent Posen for free...
...Posen's hidden weapon is his CEO, major investor and probably the only person who cares more about his success than he does: his mother Susan, a former mergers-and-acquisitions lawyer. His father is a middlingly successful painter, and his elder sister is the creative director of his label. It's a good old-fashioned family business...
...maturity. Heavily darted, they're '40s-style shapely; they flare at the hem and enhance the bust and waist. Several spring looks are constructed of thin bands of material sewn together horizontally, like belts, that can be adjusted. "I think the idea of self-tailoring is very modern," says Posen. "I want to embrace the creativity of people. Besides, all women fuss with their clothes." His pattern-making skill is almost mathematical, fitting flat geometric shapes to moving form. "My clothes are supportive and seductive," he says...
...Christ, for all its excesses, is at least presenting an idea about fashion, one that rebuffs beauty and elegance. We expect designers to get more commercial as they get older. Marc Jacobs, made famous by grunge, sent out, for spring, unimpeachably buyable little 1960s Italian housewife cocktail dresses. Posen seems to have been born commercial...
...York City and America are very different places since last year's spring shows. But Posen's clothes haven't changed much. They're egocentric--all about themselves. In other, less hyped designers' shows, such as those of Behnaz Sarafpour, there's anevolution of thought that can be plotted. But perhaps Posen just has a youthful excess of business savvy and a desire to please, instead of rebelliousness. Maybe when he's 45,he'll be the most radical designer around. --With reporting by Benjamin Nugent