Word: positano
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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Even some of the smaller labels--employing between 10 and 30 workers--have the distribution pull to get to Asia, and they're becoming players on the domestic scene. Positano, which is only two years old and still without a marketing staff or advertising budget, can be found in the Beverly Hills Macy's, smack between Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. Ecko, which started selling clothes in 1995 from a two-story walkup in Manhattan's Washington Heights, had no department-store distribution when it grossed $36 million last year and was commissioned to design a 20-piece collection...
Many of these small designers insist they aren't dependent on a particular fad--that their labels can jump with the trends they pick up from the streets. Positano's Charles Lapson, one of the hippest designers in Los Angeles, is already looking to stay ahead of the curve, moving toward inside logos and some slimmer fits. But analyst Laurence Leeds, managing director of the Buckingham Research Group, thinks none of these companies will ever be as big as Hilfiger. "Fringe fashion is never volume," says Leeds. "What these companies do well is move fashion forward, but I have doubts...