Word: potatoes
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Around Matewan, W. Va. (pop. 803), probably one-tenth of the inhabitants are Hatfield kin. Clarence ("Dutch") Hatfield, 69, Ellison's grandson, lives up the hollow from Matewan. A short walk away his great-grandfather Ephraim, the family progenitor, is buried in what used to be a potato patch, and a little way beyond is Dutch's birthplace. Says...
...tastes, products, humors and quirks of each region. She proffers such delicate provincial dishes as dandelion salad, poularde en demi-deuil and sole with stuffed artichoke bottoms (preferably using the slippery little fish known in Bordeaux as "lawyers' tongues"), as well as such robust peasant offerings as potato pie, braised partridge with lentils, and stufatu, a Corsican beef stew with macaroni...
...author is as handy with richesses like sweet-sour duck with cherries as she is with simplicities like fruit flans and potato gnocchi (which originated in Provence, not Italy). Her anthology of country stews-meat, fish and game-is thorough, as is her catalogue raisonné of cheeses. Some of the most luscious of all regional dishes are sweet: the fruity pound cake of the Loire, the tangy tartlets of Rouen and the fritters from the Alps known as pets de nonne (the name suggests they are gaseous). Willan also serves up historical tidbits. For example: Proust's madeleines...
...visitors take their last look at Leahy's New England village, set behind a large pond. Others crane at the 40-ft.-tall plastic man or gaze fondly over the fairground. Some vendors wear black armbands, but it is a futile gesture of mourning. Buying their last baked potato with sour cream and bacon, taking their last aim at ducks in the gallery shoot, or sizing up a young heifer, most visitors seem oblivious or indifferent to the fact that they are among the last to attend the Great Danbury State Fair...
...knowledge that two slices of Pepperidge Farm white bread contain more sodium than a 1-oz. bag of Lay's potato chips is a mainstream American fact of life. Label reading is not the passion of a literary or political elite...