Word: prada
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...fabric is 90% of the mental work in design," says Miuccia Prada, who most recently made a bold statement on the runway with duchess satin, a fabric most commonly used today in bridal dresses. "It's where I spend most of my time because the quality of the fabric is fundamental. When I get the fabric done, the show is done. I am at ease...
...Like Prada, there are a handful of designers over the past decade who have made headlines with fabric. In the mid-1990s, Helmut Lang and Jil Sander started incorporating techno-fabrics like nylon and carbon into more traditional weaves, giving them a lighter hand or a three-dimensional quality. They pushed the boundaries, often employing far-out materials like rubber and plastic. More recently, Alexander McQueen has expressed a ghostly romantic vibe with fine spiderweb netting. Francisco Costa has been playing with perforated latex and stretch scuba at Calvin Klein. And at Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld reintroduced the idea of rubber...
...collections last month, they were dispatching fabric teams to the big trade fairs?Premiere Vision in Paris, Moda In in Milan?to scour the market for spring 2008. And looking at those fabrics is like looking into fashion's crystal ball, especially if you are a designer like Prada, who is widely considered one of the most adventurous when it comes to how far she will push the textile mills in new directions. She loves to tell the story of kid mohair, a kind of plush, teddy-bear-like pile fabric that was considered completely uncommercial before she used...
...This is Prada's hallmark: irreverence mixed with industry. Her love of fabric dates back to her childhood and her family history: her mother was originally from the Como region of northern Italy where the silk textile factories are located. "I had silk in my hands all the time," Prada says, "the finest silk made with the thin threads of silk?a quality no longer available...
...this special supplement to TIME magazine, we look at what's next in fashion, fabric, architecture, even precious stones and cars. Consider it a sneak peek into some of the most creative minds in these businesses?from Miuccia Prada exploring new fabrics to Jan Kaplicky of Future Systems explaining architecture's next wave. As for cutting-edge consumers, they're talking about a new austerity?not just an aesthetic but also an attitude. It's all about paring down and being more mindful. That too will change, of course...