Word: racks
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Walking over to the square printing screens that are stored on a rack on wheels, Cavalli chooses one that depicts a zebra stripe and, with the help of an employee, places the screen over a table that is stretched tightly with plain white silk. Cavalli checks that the screen is clicked in place on both sides of the table, pours out a thick glob of black paint, grabs a wooden bar and smears the paint to the other side with it. Afterward, he lifts up the screen to show the design. Ten minutes go by, and the process begins again...
...Ripani, who presides over more than 20 million sq. ft. of hides?calfskin, anaconda, gazelle, ostrich, crocodile?in a giant storeroom alongside the factory. After the patterns are cut by hand with an X-Acto knife, the shoes will be stitched and molded and blown dry on a special rack...
Downstairs at headquarters, the pattern for Nelson Mandela's pant legs flutters on a rack, and two master tailors look over a camel-colored coat in vicuña before it is sent to a client. "The fabric alone is about $4,800, but it will never, ever wear out," says Alessandro Corso, who grew up in a family of tailors. His colleague Simone Lovino is busy pressing a suit for a client who has returned it because the collar is riding up. "The collar is perfect. He doesn't need a new jacket; he needs a new dry cleaner...
...real genius of Fonticoli was to recognize the importance of the fast-growing ready-to-wear suit business and develop assembly systems that would allow Brioni to make more suits in fewer hours without abandoning the company's signature hand detailing. Brioni introduced a line of off-the-rack suits in 1960. Angeloni, who trained as an economist and married into one of the families that own Brioni, took over in 1990. He has pushed to transform Brioni into a lifestyle brand by adding women's wear and accessories. "Artisans continue to offer bespoke tailoring, but we are the only...
...setting aside a client's fabric, which was said to be "spoken for") is limited to Rome and Milan and accounts for only 3% of Brioni's sales, Angeloni says it's what differentiates the brand from others. Today most of the company's business is in off-the-rack suits, priced from $2,600 and available in the same quality fabrics and with the same buttons used for the bespoke versions. A quarter of the company's 1,600 employees worldwide are trained tailors. About 20% of sales are made-to-measure suits that start...