Word: ragout
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With our salad of burrata with heirloom tomatoes, Mascha poured Antipodes, a nearly mineral-free, lightly carbonated water from New Zealand, which, because of its neutral pH, tasted pleasantly sweet against the soft cheese. With my tagliatelle with ragout, I drank a medium-carbonated, high-calcium Italian water. We also had one water that flowed through volcanic rock (Hawaiian Springs), two from melted glaciers (Hawaii's Kona Deep and Canada's unpleasantly sour 10 Thousand BC) and water freshly bottled from Tasmanian rain (Tasmanian Rain). To my surprise, the waters did taste different. Or felt different. Buying an occasional bottle...
...full attention. General manager Romani describes it as "typical trattoria dishes cooked with a French accent." That accent is relaxed and rural: lunghetti pasta came with anchovies, wild garlic and pistachios, while the thicker taccole noodles glistened in a sauce of red spring onion and baby cuttlefish; stockfish ragout arrived bubbling with Italian sausage and poached salt cod. G. was hunched over a portion of prosciutto generous enough to upholster a Chesterfield when I approached. I only intended a quick hello, but his girlfriend, misinterpreting my postprandial bloat, sweetly asked when the baby was due - a bloomer that left...
...Maine crab and crème fraîche. The omelettes are simply good, not fabulous, and contain neither enough of the promising ingredients from which they are made nor even enough salt and pepper to give them an appropriate kick. The poached eggs over spicy tomato and chorizo ragout blend too easily into the ragout, which tastes and looks like little more than a red sauce with sausage and lots of onion. The selection is helped by toast points which do well at absorbing just enough but not too much sauce, but even at that, one might as well...
...noodles glided down smoothly, dancing in a savory mixture of duck ragout and tomatoes. The duck was prepared as the best duck should be—it literally fell apart as we bit into it. The only disappointment on the menu was the rapini ($5), a side dish that resembled broccoli. We couldn’t be sure if the dish also tasted like broccoli, for an overzealous cook burnt it to the point where the taste of charcoal overshadowed any of the other flavors...
...block of translucent glass that looks like ice. One is tuna accompanied by horseradish sorbet, colder and more crystalline than the traditional horseradish in cream. Among our other favorites were a soup of sea urchin, seared foie gras and watermelon; and hot smoked arctic char with octopus, mushroom, buckwheat ragout and duck consomme...