Word: ragout
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...accent is equally Gallic at L'Ecole, the aptly named restaurant of the French Culinary Institute in New York City's SoHo district. A recent $18 prix fixe lunch began with a light Roquefort souffle, which was followed by a moist salmon fillet in chervil sauce, a delicate lamb ragout and a green salad, and ended with a textbook-perfect creme brulee...
...problem at all meals in all rooms is the tearoom breads, delicious by themselves but poor as foils for wine, the satiny American smoked salmon and the elegant terrine of truffled duck liver. Other fine dinner appetizers were the silken lobster-filled ravioli with chanterelles and hazelnuts and a ragout of wild mushrooms. Among main courses, moist, roasted pheasant with a subtle gamy flavor was well set off with pungent cranberries, and a mustard glaze added zest to sliced, rare roast filet of beef. Near misses were a too soupy stew of wild duck, the sweetbreads that tasted of overheated...
Ivens, who wrote the excellent Glorious Stew, whisks with authority through the steamy world of navarin, khoreshe, blanquette, ragout, jambalaya, estouffade, carbonado, col lops and pot-au-feu. She presents Italian, French and Viennese versions of Hungarian goulash, "five fragrances" stew from China, and two savory South American specialties: puchero criolla, a Latin version of New England boiled dinner, and carbonada criolla, beef stew served in a pumpkin. One notable entry is a veal stew from Jerez, Spain's sherry capital, redolent of fino; a dish from Italy is called maiale affogato, meaning drowned pork, in white wine...
With such bounteous raw materials, a meal can be a discovery in itself. On Montserrat, dinner may include "goat water," a ragout of kid, or "mountain chicken," crisp, fried legs of bullfrog. A dish unique to Anguilla is a brochette marinated in pineapple juice and dark molasses; a Creole specialty of St. Barts is a casserole made with cassava, calalu and other tropical vegetables. Conch (pronounced conk) fritters and chowder are delicacies anywhere. The drinks are equally exotic. On Statia, a kind of tea called mauby is made from the bark of a tree; when mixed with rum, they...