Word: ragouts
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...Consider the menu for President Clinton's last state dinner, for India's Prime Minister Atal Behari Vajpayee: Darjeeling tea, smoked poussin, chilled green pea and cilantro soup, marble potatoes, wild copper river salmon, red kuri squash and rice, bean ragout, Swiss chard custard, garlic-chanterelle emulsion, young greens and herb salad, heirloom tomatoes, dry aged cheese blossom and 25-year-old sherry dressing. Followed by mango and banner lotus, litchis and raspberry sauce, "a majestic tiger's delight," honey almond squares and chocolate coconut bars. It's not Indian takeout, but there are strong hints of the guest...
...record, then, the Bush-Fox menu is a strongly crossover affair: Maryland crab and chorizo pozole served with summer vegetables, pumpkin seed-crusted bison with poblano whipped potato, fava bean and chanterelle ragout and apple chipotle sauce, salads of gold and red tomatoes and greens, followed by mango and coconut ice cream dome, peaches, raspberries, red chili pepper sauce and tequila sabayon. Hey, who needs Tex-Mex when you're eating chili pepper sauce with the ice cream...
...unusual for Beaver and Ganksheim to sit counting off seventy measures of silence. This doesn't seem to bother them, however. They feel that this downtime helps foster a healthy, laid-back community of percussionists. And of course, if they get hungry they can always cook up a delicious ragout...
...Grilled Filet Mignon with Melting Marrow, Vegetable Ragout and Green Pepper Bordelaise ($27) looked succulent and quite fabulous under the floating fork of the adjacent table, as did the Grilled Veal Rib Chop with Marbled Mashed Potatoes and Natural Sage Jus ($29). The boldness of the flavors that come close to overwhelming the more delicate entree options would be perfectly tailored to accent the richer meat and fowl. Vegatarians need not feel unattended to: the Harvest Risotto of the night and the Sugar Pumpkin and Potato Gnocchi with Brown Butter, Sage and Mascarpone are mouthwatering in the mere description...
...Salts' star appetizers, Butternut Pierogi with Wild Hare and Herb Ragout, reinterprets Eastern European combinations with contemporary flamboyance ($9.00). Each dumpling is filled with pureed spiced butternut, then boiled and pan-fried. The dish is topped by a light, winey stew of shredded hare and onion. The appetizer special--port-glazed salmon ($8.00)--arrives char-grilled on a bed of lightly dressed greens, marinated slices of crunchy fennel, and a generous serving of sauteed oyster mushrooms. The pierogi is rich and creamy, the salmon light and crisp. Once again hearkening back to Eastern Europe are the healthy appetizer portion sizes...