Word: raisonn
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...author is as handy with richesses like sweet-sour duck with cherries as she is with simplicities like fruit flans and potato gnocchi (which originated in Provence, not Italy). Her anthology of country stews-meat, fish and game-is thorough, as is her catalogue raisonné of cheeses. Some of the most luscious of all regional dishes are sweet: the fruity pound cake of the Loire, the tangy tartlets of Rouen and the fritters from the Alps known as pets de nonne (the name suggests they are gaseous). Willan also serves up historical tidbits. For example: Proust's madeleines...
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