Word: ranchers
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...kitchen. His lean, 6-ft. 3-in. frame draped across a wing chair, McGuane exudes the tempered confidence of hard-won experience. While many of his erstwhile drinking partners have fallen by the wayside, he has managed not only to survive but to thrive in his role of gentleman rancher and Marlboro Man of letters. "I guess I'm kind of like lip cancer," he says with a wry smile. "I just won't go away...
...from Tuscarora, rancher Robin Van Norman drives a visitor into a verdant canyon sited down by U.S. Forest Service land in the Independence Mountains. Until gold was discovered, the Van Normans owned the rights to graze their cattle there. Now, on the very fence they built to control their herd, the Freeport-McMoRan Gold Co. has posted a big KEEP OUT sign. Waste rock from the mining operation has begun pushing toward the canyon like a moraine advancing at the prow of a glacier...
This courageous leader did not set out to save the Amazon but to improve the lot of rubber tappers, or seringueiros. He and his men would try to dissuade peasants from clearing land. The ranchers were eager to get rid of him, but he survived one assassination attempt after another. The conflict finally came to a head last year, when Mendes confronted a rancher named Darli Alves da Silva, who wanted to cross land claimed by rubber tappers to cut an adjacent 300-acre plot. After Mendes and a group of 200 seringueiros peacefully turned back the rancher...
...itself. Some come from as far afield as Texas and Pennsylvania. When the trains pull out each morning, cries of "Wagons ho!" fill the air. "There's no better way to see the scenery than looking between a horse's ears," says Bud Livermore, 67, a retired South Dakota rancher who scouted the route for the western wagon train...
...most noticeable of the leathery wagoners is Dave Bald Eagle, 70, a Northern Cheyenne and rancher who has clopped along with the 32-vehicle western train for 40 days. Bald Eagle, who intends to see the train out to the finish, dons his ceremonial regalia when the wagons enter some small towns. He dismisses the irony of a Native American traveling in a nostalgic procession of white folk, who were once fearful of Indian attack. "It's my way of letting the Indian people know it's best to cope with the modern world, to get busy, to do something...