Word: reaps
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...Depending on the season, they are either impassable bogs or dusty, potholed nightmares. "Ass-shatteringly bad," one visitor warned me. "I had back problems for weeks," confided another. Indeed, when I told my driver I wanted to go beyond Siem Reap's asphalt to sample the infamous hardship of roads less traveled, he promptly tripled his daily...
...anymore. Nowadays, faced with the discomfort of these roads and bridges, most tourists limit themselves to two or three days exploring Angkor Wat and other sites within easy reach of Siem Reap and its proliferating hotels. If your idea of Cambodian magic is a scrum for vantage points, against the deflating sound of clicking cameras and revving tour coaches, and curtailed by the need to be back at the hotel bar by nightfall, then fine. But if you want to leave the tourist pack behind, you have no choice but to hit the awful dirt...
Press Barren You've heard the old song about the pub with no beer? Well, how about the press club with no hacks? The new Foreign Correspondents Club in Siem Reap, tel: (855-63) 760283, is minimally elegant, fronts a leafy reach of the river, does a mean wood-fired pizza and boasts the coldest gin-and-tonics in town. But, admits manager Benoit Jancloes a trifle sheepishly, it currently doesn't have any actual newshounds among its members. "We're mainly for tourists," he says. Discounts for members of its venerable sibling in Phnom Penh, however, are sure...
...statuary or shove ancient temple stones in your backpack, you'll be thrilled to know you can now play tomb raider without risking ugly scenes at the airport or a one-way trip to some bug-infested jail. At Artisans D'Angkor, tel: (855-63) 964097, off Siem Reap's Sivatha Boulevard, talented youngsters turn out gorgeous wood and stone replicas of famous Khmer art. A mere $500 will get you a 50-centimeter-tall Jayavarman VII head. But be warned: it's authentic sandstone. Be sure to budget for the freight charges home...
...know why I built it. It was just something I had to do," says the aging artist, tel: (855-12) 686642, who has transformed his property in Siem Reap's Quartier Slokram into a kind of Khmer Field of Dreams. "My wife thinks I'm nuts, and so do the neighbors...