Word: refueling
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Dates: during 2010-2019
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...Hill Station. Back in town, head over to the Lazimpat district for last-minute shopping at Mahaguthi, tel: (977-1) 553 3197, which sells Fair Trade crafts and jewelry. Across the street, Wild Earth, tel: (977-1) 437 4178, sells locally made soaps and essential oils. For a quick refuel, Lazimpat's Ambassador Hotel has a tiny but relaxing café, Cibo, tel: (977-1) 441 0727. From there, you can choose either the Narayanhiti Palace Museum on Durbar Marg for more sightseeing or venture into Thamel, a maze of narrow alleys, cafés, restaurants, climbing shops, bookstores...
...didn't refuel at one of the market's food stalls, head back to the city center for a meal at Chaikhana Jalal-Abad, tel: (996-312) 61 00 83, which deals in southern Kyrgyz cuisine and offers fine larzuro (beef and vegetables) as well as unsurpassed people-watching. Order a pot of tea, settle back on your tapchan - the perfect combination of bed and dinner table - and let the world go by. Later in the evening, swing by the Stari (Old) Edgar jazz bar in Dubovy Park for free-flowing booze and blues until the early hours...