Word: reichle
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Those in the know place her as a key contender, despite her not having that essential ingredient: her own TV show. "The next Martha? Who knows. Not impossible," says Ruth Reichl, the editor in chief of Gourmet magazine. "She's the only one who is a cook, a stylist and a businesswoman." Barbara Fairchild, the editor in chief of Bon Appetit, is equally impressed. She describes Hay as "such a down-to-earth person. She's not Martha, and I think a lot more people can identify with her. She struck me as someone who would be pretty easy...
Comfort Me with Apples recounts how that voice was nourished, intertwining Reichl's professional coming of age with her not-unrelated emergence into full-blown womanhood. As such, it is a very adult meditation on love. The title borrows a line from the Song of Solomon that Reichl discovered in her confirmation Bible: "Comfort me with apples, for I am lovesick." The book luxuriates in her adulterous affair with her New West boss, Colman Andrews, who once greeted Reichl at an airport not with flowers but with fraises des bois flown in from France. "He kissed me and said, 'Close...
...Ruth Reichl remembers the uproar when her biting 1993 story about how unknowns are treated at the chic Le Cirque restaurant appeared in the New York Times. "As my husband said, you'd think I'd exposed police corruption," she says. Now editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, Reichl made her reputation by chronicling not just the sensory attributes of food but its emotional and psychosocial qualities as well. She brings those same skills to writing about her life in Comfort Me with Apples: More Adventures at the Table (Random House; 302 pages...
...volume opens with Reichl reviewing restaurants for New West magazine in the late 1970s. Amid the burgeoning California food scene, she witnesses the rise of celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, the ascendance of the seminal restaurants Chez Panisse, Chinois and Michael's, and the increasing regard for locally grown ingredients. She rises too, eventually moving to the Los Angeles Times, where she heralds America's embrace of Asian cuisine...
...Reichl, 53, credits her successful reviewing career (which later peaked at the New York Times) to a convergence of forces. "I feel as if I was just a little bit ahead of the curve," she says, "because in the '60s almost nobody I knew was interested in food. And suddenly there I was writing about the subject in New York City, in the '90s, when Americans were interested and knowledgeable and the city had the money to go out and eat. There I was, placed as the person whose voice was the loudest...