Word: rellenos
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Besides the incredible guacamole hand-made in a stone mortar right on the table, the appetizers (entreplatos) range from the crowd-pleasing nachos to cheese, potato and chicken-filled taquitos. The Texan ordered some cheese relleno, which showed up in a narrow casserole dish and was consumed in a matter of seconds. Meanwhile, the exquisite sangria was poured around and downed with grunts and slurps by the boorish and thirsty crowd. This was actually a sign of the sangria’s quality, rather than general disregard of manners. A lone editor tasted an extra sour margarita with lots...
...theory, it is not a great leap from the North American chili-tortilla parlor to the true provincial cuisine of Mexico. In fact, it would take years for the most diligent gringo to understand or annotate this peasant-rooted cuisine of peppers and cornmeal, arroz, barbacoa and relleno. Diana Kennedy, English by birth and Mexicana by persuasion, invested a large part of her life tasting and testing south of the border to produce The Cuisines of Mexico in 1972. She spent five more years researching the 1978 followup, Recipes from the Regional Cooks of Mexico (Harper & Row; 288 pages...
Round a portly, florid French chef in a hole-in-the-wall restaurant on rue de Longchamp clustered 60 homesick Mexicans. The peppery air crackled and popped with counsel on the making of tortillas and chile relleno on current Paris rations...
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