Word: ricci
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Crahay, of the house of Ricci, plunges décolletage both fore and aft (either one or the other, not both at once), swirls one-armed capes around suits and coats. Balmain's tubular sheaths stick to the body like spies but turn coy beneath coverup chiffon overlayers. Goma's collection-the theme is "looping the loop"- shows wasp waists and a high bustline. Griffe, who claims to have "rediscovered woman," calls his shape the "jet line," fans permanent pleating out from just underneath the arms or from mid-front and back to the hem. Jacques Heim...
Hold Tight. For all the excitement and enthusiasm over the old look, U.S. buyers at the showings had some muted misgivings. Many of the new fashions are simply too intricately detailed to mass-produce for spring sale in the U.S. Ricci, who introduced a "firecracker" silhouette, raised eyebrows with clutch-dresses without buttons down the shirt front, requiring two hands to keep them closed and prevent outright exposure above the waist-particularly since Ricci, to heighten the flat-chested flapper look, sent his mannequins out braless. Other houses, to achieve the same de-emphasis, went even farther, bound up their...
Married. Anna Maria Moneta Caglio, 30, socialite dubbed the "black swan" by the Italian press while she was performing as a controversial, contradictory witness in the Wilma Montesi homicide case, which shook Italian governmental circles from 1954 to 1957; and Mario Ricci, 34, builder, student, playboy; in Florence...
This year's clothes are simpler and more wearable than in many years. With no single New Look, the fashions show a great deal of variety. Waistlines wander from bust (Laroche) to hip (Dior); necklines are generally bare. Pleats are emphasized in Nina Ricci's dresses and evening gowns. Suits are sometimes only suits, but often, as with Pierre Cardin, they turn out to be dresses with jackets. Several leading houses emphasized lounging pants, among them Dior, which designed a number of lounging costumes for formal evening wear. About the only thing the designers agreed on was that...
...Ricci. The loudest cheer was not for Dior, Chanel, Manguin and other big names but for an almost unknown couturier. His collection of neat suits and petite bell-skirted dresses had the buyers raving over "the exciting new house"-and buying. The house is Nina Ricci (pronounced reachy), in business for 27 years in a modest establishment far from the fashionable couture neighborhood. The designer is little (5 ft. 6 in., 154 lbs.), blond Jules-François Crahay, 41, who "merely did what I've been doing all my life." The Paris-trained son of a Belgian dressmaker...