Word: ricotta
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...anyone back at the table. Unlike the gut-busting, fully loaded fast-food pizzas, these are light as soufflés. As terrific as Ernesto's thin-crust pizza is, his greatest achievement may be his monumental pizza fritta, a deep-fried crescent of folded pizza dough stuffed with ricotta, like a calzone for angels. Suffice it to say these golden puffs are worth every calorie. My husband and I and a friend are just stopping for a snack on the way to dinner, but we still inhale two thin-crust pizzas and a platter of deep-fried macaroni...
...Laurentiis and Goin cook for different audiences, but both use butter, oil, cheese and chocolate with profligacy. A signature De Laurentiis dish is a homey chicken Tetrazzini made with heavy cream and whole milk; Goin's book offers a tarte au fromage that contains a pound of ricotta inside an all-butter puff pastry, topped with not only lemon cream but also blueberry compote. There's something nearly carnal about all this full-fat food issuing from the kitchens of these gorgeous, tiny women. On a 2004 episode of Everyday Italian, De Laurentiis made two rich stuffed pastas as well...
...true foodie dads like Stoloff, restraint, not extra enthusiasm, is what's required to keep the home running smoothly. One recent weeknight, for example, Stoloff decided to use some ricotta he had on hand to make cheesecake instead of just focusing on the meal. "That decision to make one thing extra," he freely admits, "messes everything up. But mostly, I keep myself in check--unless we're having a dinner party. Then I go nuts...
Home-made ravioli with pesto and tofu ricotta...
...turnip puree. The bland turnip does not add much to the scallops, which are quite tasty in their own right, and the bread pudding-esque herbalita is fatty and almost slimy, a poor textual complement for the scallops. One vegetarian option is an entrée-sized portion of ricotta and bread dumplings in red wine porcini sauce ($14). The dish is filling and zesty, and probably best eaten in the appetizer portion ($7). The other vegetarian option— a five-course tasting menu with dessert ($38)—often includes the dumplings as well as a variety...