Word: ricotta
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Other beguilements included ham, salami, cheese and dozens of honeyed mustards, which, along with the oozing emulsions that passed for salad dressings, were the most characteristic products of the show. Many tasters found la dolce vita by way of ricotta-filled pastry by the Cannoli Factory, and most headed for the booth of Paron Chocolatier to see the first-prize winner among new products (awarded by the show's sponsor, the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade). A visit to Paron meant risking sugar shock because the blue-ribbon concoction turned out to be Eve's Revenge, an obscene...
...pasta pots for Operator Tony May, who masterminds Palio's spacious and vaguely Japanese- looking dining rooms. So far Hellrigl's esoteric offerings have been uneven. They may be as institutionally dull as his lackluster codfish with potatoes or the watery mushroom terrine or as wonderfully executed as the ricotta dumplings with truffle butter or a risotto with sweet red peppers. "It is a challenge to give Americans a taste of my style," Hellrigl says. "Some definitely do not like the food," admits May, "but they may not understand...
...menus, both aristocratic and earthy, exude all the warmth and good humor of la cucina Italiana at its best. For the primo piatto, traditionally pasta or a rice dish or soup, recipes go from the outrageously calorific, like a macaroni concoction with both cream and meat sauces, to simple ricotta croquettes (the ricotta in Rome is made from sheep's milk). To shock the neighbors, there is a fashion able pasta with vodka and red-pepper flakes...
...husband Angelo, who also prescribed the wines throughout. There are surprisingly few game dishes, but Angelo did contribute a rustic pheasant pate. Desserts include a chocolate and amaretti pie from Parma and one lavish sweet, Sicilian cassata: lemon cake lopped with a heady mixture of rum, chocolate and ricotta. The baking of this elaborately decorated cassata is so distracting a labor that in 1575 the Roman Catholic Church forbade nuns to make it during Holy Week...
...just dealt with a bill to add, as consumer representatives, two corpses to the state anatomical board: that passes for humor in Lincoln. Rhode Island's senators breezily adopted a resolution praising the hairdo of a female legislator, but the house turned aside a proposal to decree ricotta the State Cheese. In Florida, the legislature recently indulged in boisterous repartee over a measure that would have made it a crime to molest the "skunk ape," a mythical critter occasionally sighted around the state that is said to stand 7 ft. tall, weigh 700 lbs. and smell like swamp...