Word: riving
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...every turn, Powell makes Edisto far more than a novel about budding aware ness. As the boy talks he reveals the South's new reconstruction: carpetbaggers who ar rive by jet from the Middle East to buy whole islands, the latest styles in scalawags and gentrification. Simons revisits Charles ton's old Negro market and finds that things have changed: "Bats, rafters, shale, pee, lead paint, clothes wads, the stuck bar ber pole, chili in open pots, all went to dropped ceilings for energy saving, parquet, rest rooms, pastel, jean shops, international flags waving in front...
...marvel of classic grace achieved through proportion and soft pleating. Pants, which Saint Laurent thinks may be his biggest contribution to fashion, have clear, economical lines, never exaggerated, never mannish. Good tailoring is behind what is truly his greatest influence on clothing, the huge (172 outlets) international string of Rive Gauche shops, started in 1966, that sell Saint Laurent's ready-to-wear line. There are only a few examples in the museum show; Vreeland insists that the pieces are hard to find because owners refuse to part with treasures like the YSL classic military overcoat for the nine...
...Saint Laurent turned serious about evening clothes. The fashion press, to which he is acutely sensitive, was giving its most reverent attention to his Rive Gauche collections, and so the couturier decided to teach his critics a lesson. Using lavish matierials, he created dazzling sequences of adornments fit for the queens of legend: Spanish motifs that might have been painted by Velásquez, extravagent conjuries of ancient China and, most famous, the Russian-inspired "rich peasant" collection that was front-page news for the New York Times in 1976. The theme was copied internationally in every price range...
...therapist in Paris five times a week and takes a regimen of "calmant" pills, which he unwisely chases with alcohol on occasion. He is now so detached that he regards solitude as "a friend." The burden of putting on four extravaganzas a year-two for haute couture, two for Rive Gauche-for a quarter of a century would seem to justify a sabbatical, but Saint Laurent does not take that option. Karl Lagerfeld blames the designer's inner circle for his misery: "I think back 20 years and remember his charm, his laugh. That entourage has managed to convince...
...consuming interest. He prefers couture because the fine fabrics make him feel "like a wood sculptor who gets to work with the finest ebony." It is also satisfying that his seamstresses complete every alteration, every sleeve and collar by the next day. "That's not the case with Rive Gauche at all," he laments. "I have to work with factories. I give them a sketch and have to wait twelve to 15 days before I see the result. It's total anguish." One of the pressure points of Saint Laurent's calendar is assembling the Rive Gauche...