Word: riving
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STEPPING ASIDE. YVES SAINT LAURENT, 61, neurasthenic and increasingly reclusive French fashion legend whose creations have modernized and adorned society figures for close to 40 years; from his ready-to-wear line; in Paris. Duties for the Rive Gauche line will fall to Alber Elbaz, though Saint Laurent will continue designing the haute couture...
Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche collection came last, with masterful ease and variety if not innovation. The high point was a Scotch symphony of plaids ranging from sporty separates to opulent evening costumes, a Highland fling of color. In recent years it has become a form of rude sport to guess how the designer would look when he took his bow -- lean and fit or pale and puffy. But when he was absent, the crowd filed out subdued and thoughtful. This rich, elaborate kingdom misses its king...
...every turn, Powell makes Edisto far more than a novel about budding aware ness. As the boy talks he reveals the South's new reconstruction: carpetbaggers who ar rive by jet from the Middle East to buy whole islands, the latest styles in scalawags and gentrification. Simons revisits Charles ton's old Negro market and finds that things have changed: "Bats, rafters, shale, pee, lead paint, clothes wads, the stuck bar ber pole, chili in open pots, all went to dropped ceilings for energy saving, parquet, rest rooms, pastel, jean shops, international flags waving in front...
...therapist in Paris five times a week and takes a regimen of "calmant" pills, which he unwisely chases with alcohol on occasion. He is now so detached that he regards solitude as "a friend." The burden of putting on four extravaganzas a year-two for haute couture, two for Rive Gauche-for a quarter of a century would seem to justify a sabbatical, but Saint Laurent does not take that option. Karl Lagerfeld blames the designer's inner circle for his misery: "I think back 20 years and remember his charm, his laugh. That entourage has managed to convince...
...consuming interest. He prefers couture because the fine fabrics make him feel "like a wood sculptor who gets to work with the finest ebony." It is also satisfying that his seamstresses complete every alteration, every sleeve and collar by the next day. "That's not the case with Rive Gauche at all," he laments. "I have to work with factories. I give them a sketch and have to wait twelve to 15 days before I see the result. It's total anguish." One of the pressure points of Saint Laurent's calendar is assembling the Rive Gauche...