Word: robes
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...building in Lower Manhattan resembles a modern free-form museum or college library. Inside, the light, airy waiting area could be mistaken for an airport lounge. There are no juries or casual spectators at the confidential proceedings, so the small courtrooms look like corporate conference chambers. Only the black robe and elevated bench maintain tradition...
Transformed by Dignity. On the bare cypress-wood stage of the Nō theater, the actor's robe is both costume and set. Its stiff, voluminous folds, bulked out with padding and under-robes, suggest architecture. The actors move slowly-Nō acting is more remarkable for stateliness than agility -and the audience has time to inspect the details of a costume. (Nevertheless, the work represented in the Tokugawa collection can hardly have been fully appreciated onstage, any more than the craftsmanship of a medieval chasuble can be discerned from the church pews.) It follows that...
...traditional Japanese performing art," remarks the Tokugawa Museum's curator, Sadao Okochi, in the catalogue, "has been purified and transformed by the dignity of its costumes." The motifs of a robe's design establish the mood, the period and the place of the action. Thus-to a Japanese theatergoer who knew the rules-a costume like the karaori robe in russet silk (see color] would at once suggest a Heian-period court, somewhere between A.D. 800 and 1200. The balls, woven with exquisite precision in raised white silk, refer to a Heian court game called kemari, an aristocratic...
Likewise, the extraordinary 17th century outer robe covered with woven brocade designs of autumnal grasses is intended (so the catalogue notes inform us) to convey the "melancholy, somewhat desolate mood" of "a lonely field at dusk." If this is melancholy, the mood was never more lyrically conveyed. The robe is an anthology of natural observation, with seven types of plants rendered in a marvelously clear, springy line, through gradations of color that result from the separate tinting, part by part, of each of the thousands of silk threads. Where the brown, gray and blue rectangles of the background meet...
...gringo school outside of Beacon Hill. But gradually that year he understood it was that other stereotype, that Harvard-Fly-Club-air-of-casual-scholarship phantom that was going to take him even further in the gringo world as soon as he could climb out of the long black robe on Commencement. Hell, he figured, there's Ropes and Gray and Rose Guthrie and Alexander and ll those other big law firms, and anyone of them must be dying for an affirmative action special--a bright Chicano who doesn't talk like a Chicano, who in fact talks like Skiddy...