Word: rodriguezes
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NAYELI E. RODRIGUEZ...
...Rodriguez is author of Mongrels, Bastards, Orphans, and Vagabonds: Mexican Immigration and the Future of Race in America
...cooking traditional cassoulet across Languedoc and beyond. The Academy's Route des Cassoulets offers a visitor's guide to the region, directing the hungry and the curious to restaurants where they can experience all the tastes of the dish. "Cuisine is my religion," says Academy founder Jean-Claude Rodriguez. "Montagné wrote about cassoulet with love, and I try to cook that way." At Restaurant Château Saint-Martin in Carcassonne, Rodriguez faithfully recreates cassoulet à l'ancienne, with white beans from the village of Mazères, aged ham, pork rind, pig's foot and knuckle meat...
...Rodriguez acknowledges Castelnaudary's status as the capital of cassoulet, but shudders at the sheer volume of the stuff generated in the town's environs: an average of 120 tons is factory-canned there every day. Luckily, at his lively restaurant Au Petit Gazouillis, Alain van Ees Beeck has been cooking Castelnaudary cassoulet from scratch for nearly 20 years. With peppery Montagne Noire sausage, creamy Lauragais beans - slow-cooked with ham hock for a rich, smoky taste - and the farm-raised duck confit famous in Castelnaudary, Van Ees Beeck can boast an authenticity no mass-produced cassoulet can match...
...true liturgy of cassoulet isn't in ? the recipe, says Rodriguez, but rather in the special ? moment when friends gather around a large, steaming earthenware caçòla and meal becomes Mass. "Cassoulet has such a religion around it because it's the plat de partage - the dish of sharing," he says. "When a cassoulet arrives at the table, bubbling with aromas, something magical happens - it's Communion around a dish." Amen! www.routedescassoulets.com