Word: roped
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Dates: during 1930-1939
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...office he saw the prison yard suddenly seething with a bloody, vicious riot. A dozen convicts had captured Deputy Warden Giles. Three hundred others were milling in the yard armed with clubs and rocks. Some had guns. Louis Deathridge, a Missouri desperado, ran to the wall with a rope which had a hook on the end. He hurled the hook over the wall, started to climb. A blast of gunfire from the guards above sent Desperado Deathridge spinning. The prisoners in the yard roared with rage, retrieved his body...
...Hans Hartmann and Dr. Karl Wien passed the spot, which was by no means too difficult for skilled mountaineers. Hermann Schaller was just about to ascend the steep couloir, and I watched him from near by; for my rope team, consisting of Hans Prischer, myself and a porter, was to follow at once...
...Quietly and surely Schaller cleared the steps formerly cut. Passang, the second man on the rope, elderly and reliable, followed for a few metres, and a third man, Tsain Narboo, stood on the boulder at the beginning of the couloir and managed the rope...
...fraction of a second I hoped the rope might break the fall, though at once I was aware that no rope could halt this double fall. The bodies flew down the terrifically steep couloir. The porter of my rope team screamed with horror and looked as if he were going to throw himself down the abyss. We all felt an uncanny desire to follow them...
...Dulled with terror, we realized the terrible disaster. With a rope we fixed the porter to the rock over which the rest of the rope was double slung. We proceeded to Camp Eight, where we recalled Hartmann and Dr. Wien, for the whole party to descend and search for our poor friends. Six in all passed the night on an ice ledge a metre wide on the range of the couloir. Next day almost the entire expedition gathered in the highest basin of the Zemu Glacier...