Word: rostrata
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...Shellfish (Doubleday; $16.95). The theme of her book is "taking fish seriously," which steak-and-tater Yankees seldom do, even on the seacoasts. Americans are blessed with a biblical abundance of seafood; some 200 varieties pass through Manhattan's Fulton Fish Market. They range from the eel (Anguilla rostrata), much prized by Mediterranean diners, to squid, abalone, Boston scrod, the sadly underrated pike and San Francisco Dungeness crab. American oysters-notably Lynnhavens, Bluepoints, Chincoteagues and the Pacific Olympias-are as delicious and nutritious as any that Roman emperors had shipped from England packed in snow. (Louis XI ordered...
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