Word: rouen
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...Rouen, I have great fear that you are going to suffer by my death! Jesus, Jesus!"-Joan...
Even the bizarre designs left behind by Rouen's Jean-Jacques Lequeu (1757-1825), who lived and died in poverty, obscurity and probable madness, have now been built in an era when modern steel and prestressed concrete make possible feats of construction that could only have been dreamed of in the 18th century. Lequeu's surrealistic designs for barns shaped like cows, and palaces with columns in the forms of deer and bears have been echoed not only in the fantastic churches designed by architects like Spain's Antoni Gaudi, but also in the animal-and coffeepot...
...Padlocks. This remarkable museum (see color opposite) houses 12,000 examples of the smithy's cunning, assembled by a minor Parisian nobleman named Henri Le Secq des Tournelles and his father Jerome Le Secq des Tournelles, between 1870 and 1921. Henri gave his collection to the city of Rouen a year before his death when the city fathers offered to house it in the 15th century Church of St. Laurent, which had been secularized and abandoned during the Revolution. To the younger Des Tournelles, iron collecting was a kind of madness. His wife divorced him over it, his fortune...
...Biot and the Picasso museum in the Château Grimaldi in Antibes. And for some 30,000 lovers of ironwork-from forthright masculine forging to lacy feminine filigree, from the Roman keys to the needlepoint balustrade that graced Mme. de Pompadour's country mansion-there is Rouen's Musée Le Secq des Tournelles...
Flying Flags. In the countryside, Hassam maintained that "New England churches have the same kind of beauty as Greek temples." He made the church in Old Lyme, Conn., his version of Monet's Rouen cathedral, painting it through all the o'clocks of light. Another favorite subject was the banners that billowed above city streets; he shuttled their bright colors back and forth through his works, loosening background images to mingle with the flat patterns of flags...