Word: roux
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...First I like to do things I like, and second, I like to make money, which I like." So says Albert Roux, who with Brother Michel owns several celebrated restaurants, including Le Gavroche in London and the Waterside Inn in nearby Bray. Both boast the Guide Michelin's top rating, three stars. The Rouxs are among a number of prestigious European chefs and restaurateurs opening branches in the U.S. Currently the brothers provide inspiration, advice and some financial backing to Michael's Waterside Inn, a superb and comfortably inviting restaurant in Santa Barbara, Calif. The inn, which opened...
Albert and Michel hope the inn will be the first of many outposts in this country. To that end they are seeking out and training gifted young American chefs, like Michael Hutchings, the controlling partner in their Santa Barbara pilot venture. Some of the menu offerings are Roux inventions -- the cloudlike cheese souffle adrift in a cream and Gruyere sauce and the succulent beef tournedos in robust red-wine sauce with an earthy hotchpotch of mushrooms. Equally delectable are Hutchings' own creations -- tender abalone in a beurre- blanc sauce with caviar, and squab mellowed in a shallot-scented Cabernet sauce...
...fashionable Milan favorite Da Bice, other popular Italian restaurants, such as the posh El Toula chain and the sublime San Domenico in Imola, near Bologna, are seeking locations. Not all agree that New York is the only place to be. Michael Hutchings explains why he and the Roux brothers chose Santa Barbara. "This is a cosmopolitan town and is a getaway for the very rich. People demand a high quality of life, and so it's perfect for a first-quality restaurant." Lower overhead and less competition are also factors. Andre Surmain, the founder of New York's Lutece...
...malign publisher, Lambert Le Roux, is the captivating antihero of the piece. By cunning, he takes over both a populist tabloid and a stately, ultraupperbrow daily. The character has been assumed by many people in Britain to be a burlesque of Australian Press Lord Rupert Murdoch, owner of the Sun and Times of London, as well as the New York Post, Boston Herald and Chicago Sun-Times. There are conspicuous differences: Le Roux is a South African, not an Australian, and he lives in the Surrey countryside, not New York City...
Whatever real-world parallels the playwrights may have had in mind for this shrewd, calculatedly savage entrepreneur, Le Roux has a life of his own, and on the grand scale. In Anthony Hopkins' brilliant, buoyant realization, he is a comic creation as monstrously beguiling as Tartuffe. He shares with Moliere's sham holy man the gift of ever renewed plausibility. Time and again, just as the audience is ready to withdraw its sympathy in disgust, Le Roux exposes the hypocrisies of opponents so tellingly that he becomes persuasive anew. When outraged employees confront him, his retort is blunt and seemingly...