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...carried our coolers into the stadium and ate our quiche, raw vegetables and dip at our seats. Apparently our Yankee menu caused quite a sensation, and people all around us were staring and pointing. Finally, one young Southern gentleman, seated several seats to the right in the row below us, became so curious that he yelled, "What are they eating?" The answer was swift and tinged with horror from those seated immediately in front of us: "Custard pie and uncooked vegetables!" We still get a chuckle over that "tailgate party...
...planned changes, but they also foresee potential problems. The tailors fear that some of the newly available retail space will be filled by men's outfitters they consider rivals. And despite rent increases, the tailors have historically paid much less than the going retail rates in the neighborhood - Savile Row tailors pay an average of $255 per square foot, while rents on nearby Regent Street are around $820 per square foot. Although the tailors will continue to receive substantial discounts, their rents will almost certainly continue to creep upward. "It will remain survival of the fittest," Rowland says...
...boost revenues, some Savile Row tailors have licensed franchises in Asia. Others, like Boateng and Gieves & Hawkes, also sell ready-to-wear and made-to-measure clothes. The latter, unlike bespoke, are altered from block patterns rather than being custom-made - bespoke suits are cut by hand from scratch to meet the buyer's exact build, gleaned from 35 different measurements and requiring at least three fittings, and then stitched almost entirely by hand...
...Jones argues that poor marketing and promotion, rather than stiffer rents, had been the industry's main problems. "Two years ago, the industry wasn't confident. Now, it is." Rowland agrees: "We let 'Savile Row Bespoke' be used right, left and center." Today, a "collective mark" trademark registration of the term requires that anyone wanting to call their wares Savile Row Bespoke must meet a long list of quality criteria, including at least 50 man-hours per suit, and be located on the street or within 100 yards of it. Though interlopers could be sued, the mark is mostly...
...efforts are paying off. Total annual bespoke revenues - currently around $51 million - have grown by more than 10% a year for the past few, according to the industry group. Savile Row's tailors have long attracted heads of state, captains of industry, and the stars of music, film and sports, from Prince Charles and Cary Grant to Mick Jagger and David Beckham. Now, a growing number of younger customers, weary of big-name, overexposed luxury brands, are joining the club. Explains Rowland: "They're looking for something more authentic. They're asking, 'What's new?'" And for some, the answer...