Word: rudi
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...cover up, the new lightweight underwear makes only the slightest pretext at serious figure control, concentrates on "caressing" the body, rather than curtailing it, on "skimming" across the bosom, not shaping it, on "careening" around the bottom, not controlling it. Presumed at first to be gags, items like Rudi Gernreich's no-bra bra and Warner's body stockings instead have proved pacesetters for a rash of stretchable flesh-colored garments that look like a second skin, feel far silkier than the first...
...naturally Italy's Emilio Pucci, lightweight sportswear champion of the world, who predicted that it would not be long before bikini wearers, dissatisfied with halfway measures and interrupted suntans, would drop their modest pretensions along with the tops of their suits. And though the U.S.'s Rudi Gernreich was the first to snatch the idea off the rack and get it on the market (TIME, June 26), the evidence presented at the fall fashion collections in Florence last week showed that the Italians were not prepared to let the U.S. run off with the topless suit honors...
...taste and a discriminating eye, in a flair for fabric and a sense of color, in a subtle bit of seamwork, an intricate set of pleats, a bead, a button, some spangles, a feather. Norell is neither set in his ways, like Mainbocher, nor out to amaze like Rudi Gernreich (of the topless-suit Gernreichs). He is a fashion moderate in step with the day, inventive but practical, inspired but patient. His virtues have paid off in a long line of fashion hits: the evening shirtwaist, the empire look, the chemise, the wool evening dress, the sequined sheath and culottes...
...Rudi was right as rain. His topless bathing suit (designed as "a prediction of things to come") was first modeled in the flesh for buyers early this month, drew S.R.O. crowds and, of course, caused raging controversy. "Now come, boys," wrote the New York Herald Tribune's Eugenia Sheppard, "girls have been dropping the tops of their suits for years." "It has no dignity," snipped Designer Norman Norell, "it's rock bottom." Colleague Oleg Cassini explained that the suit could hardly influence him. "I'm already very conscious," he yawned, "of that part of the anatomy." Through...
Another idea for Rudi-should things get boring again...