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...houses," says ex-Model China Machado, now an editor on Harper's Bazaar, "is that we are developing a Designer's Look." Each designer strives to create an individual personality that comes across in all his clothes; and they range from, say, the kooky inventiveness of Rudi Gernreich to the effortless poise of Ferdinando Sarmi. As to the best U.S. designers, each fashion expert has his preference, but two are universally ranked...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Fashion: The Americans | 9/9/1966 | See Source »

...really shade: face-size visors reminiscent of the welder's mask or bookkeeper's eye-shield. They were launched 18 months ago by Coty Award-winning Milliner Halston, who was inspired by the green eyeshield worn by his elderly seamstress. Soon they were shown by other designers (Rudi Gernreich, André Courréges, Paco Rabanne), but they did not catch on until this year. Suddenly they are everywhere: at the five and ten for $1, at Manhattan's Bergdorf Goodman (home of Halston...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Fashion: Shadow of Her Smile | 5/13/1966 | See Source »

...sophisticated styles. To make their clothes "in," counteract the year's lead time they must contend with, and gain more of the market, Wards and Penney have signed up name designers. Wards (last year's total sales: $1.8 billion) has twelve international designers, among them Jacques Heim, Rudi Gernreich, Fabiani and Clodagh of Dublin. J. C. Penney's (1965 sales: $2.3 billion) "Young Junior" look is by Mary Quant, Mitzou of Madrid, Ariel of Paris. Sears (1965 sales: $6.9 billion) calls its collection "Junior Route 1966," describes it as "young, racy, right in style." The catalogue companies...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Retailing: Where It's Always Spring | 1/21/1966 | See Source »

...Perspectives. The new designs use ingenuity to do what bones and girdling could not. They scorn the plain nude look. Instead, they are finding new ways to make their revelations. For the healthy inside look, both Cole and Stewart have contrived necklines that plunge full and wide. Rudi Gernreich, whose topless suit provided the industry with welcome publicity but negligible sales, has engineered the "bib" suit, which comes loosely up over the middle of the bosom, but leaves the outer reaches marginally exposed, offering a new perspective to the girl watcher who prefers to sneak a sidelong glance rather than...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Fashions: Less for Sea Than Seeing | 12/31/1965 | See Source »

...year when the temperamental Tartar also left two Soviet "bodyguards" breathless at Le Bourget Airport as he leaped away from the Leningrad-Kirov Ballet troupe to become the most spectacular male dancer in the West. After performing in Paris with Dame Margot Fonteyn at the Third International Dance Festival, Rudi had a sentimental look at his old Leningrad-Kirov comrades for the first time in four years, broke into wild applause from the audience as Compatriot Yuri Soloviev bounded through Bluebird and Giselle. "They dance so beautifully," sighed Rudi. But he carefully avoided dancing backstage for a reunion...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: People: Dec. 24, 1965 | 12/24/1965 | See Source »

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