Word: sagrada
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When you look around Barcelno you first sense the pure giddiness of the city in its buildings. One facade of the Sagrada Familia church, the city's most famous landmark and the creation of iconoclastic architect Antonio Gaudf, shows a stylized crucifixion with a nude and faceless Modernista Jesus, while another side, constructed seemingly of marzipan, seems on the verge of melting...
...perfection off the open-air platform in Barcelona, their performances will be rivaled by the view -- by cable cars moving past Columbus on his column pointing to the New World; by the crown of thorns of the 13th century cathedral La Seu; by the unfinished confection of Gaudi's Sagrada Familia, its eight towers reaching to the sky even as the divers speed downward, trying not to make a splash...
...Colonia Guell -- the chapel of an industrial community for weavers at Santa Coloma de Cervello, half an hour's drive from Barcelona -- or the Parc Guell, with its ravishing Hansel-and-Gretel pavilions and its undulating benches covered in their mosaic of broken tiles; or, of course, the Sagrada Familia...
...Sagrada Familia (which is not a cathedral but an "expiatory temple" dedicated to the cult of the Holy Family) is Gaudi's best-known building, the logo of Barcelona as the Statue of Liberty is of New York City. Unfortunately, because most of its designs were lost in the Spanish Civil War, nobody knows how Gaudi would have finished it, and the newly completed sections look dead compared with the parts Gaudi supervised. The facade sculptures by Josep Subirachs are particularly inert and vulgar. They seem to epitomize the moment when the religious art of Catholic Europe died for want...
Tradition -- and tourism -- insists the Sagrada Familia is Gaudi's masterpiece. It is not. The Casa Mila and the crypt of the Colonia Guell, among others, are superior. But in any case, not all the best modernista building and decor are by Gaudi. Other and hardly lesser Catalan architects await discovery by the visitor. Two names in particular stand out: Lluis Domenech i Montaner (1850-1923) and Josep Puig i Cadafalch...