Word: saint
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When Floriane de Saint Pierre was 6 years old, she would go with her mother at the start of every season to Yves Saint Laurent's boutique on the Avenue Victor Hugo, near their Paris apartment. "She was not buying anywhere else," says Saint Pierre, remembering how her mother would stock up on the designer's striped sweaters, wedge-heeled espadrilles and khaki trousers...
...surprise that from her perch at the top of Europe's leading executive-search firm for the fashion and luxury industries, Saint Pierre demonstrates a philosophy--and forte--of recruiting top-level hires who have a particular brand in their blood. "For me, each brand is like a tribe, a clan," she says. "The managers and designers need to be in total osmosis with the essence of the brand. It is like a marriage...
...Saint Pierre, 39, has worked behind the scenes to facilitate some of the most illustrious unions in fashion: Christopher Bailey as creative director at Burberry (whose vision, she says, "was so much about this English attitude, the heather and the rain, and immediately we felt that he had the DNA in his blood"), Italo Zucchelli as the menswear design director at Calvin Klein, Christophe Lemaire as creative director for Lacoste. She also placed Narciso Rodriguez and Lanvin's Alber Elbaz in their first design-director positions...
...distortions for emotional effect and etiolated figures hovering in nonphysical space, reflects this. He even deforms eyes, and may have invented the ecstatic upward glance with a liquid highlight that can be seen on the strangely conical eyeballs of Mary Magdalen in Penitence (early 1580s). Not just a saint, she is also a symbol of repentance: a state of mind the church wished to encourage in its followers...
...Late in his life, El Greco painted St. John, whose elaborate vision became the biblical book Revelation, as part of a never-completed altarpiece. The scene may show the moment when the saint meets the souls of those who died for their faith. John is an impossibly stretched figure, throwing up his hands against one of El Greco's typically stormy skies, his face seen in violent perspective. The martyrs seem pallid and rubbery, but the scene has a strange intensity; even the drapery quivers with emotion and vibrates with light. There may be more mundane reasons...