Word: saint
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...Yves Saint Laurent radiates timidity and a fragile, overstrained sensibility. Last Tuesday when he found his way to the Costume Institute in the bowels of the Metropolitan Museum, he was stopped by a security guard and meekly signed in to see his own show. As the frantic week of preparation went on, he was coaxed one way by Diana Vreeland, the other by his hectoring partner, Pierre Bergé. Saint Laurent did his best, moving as if in a daze...
...says, "honored" by this retrospective, which is his symbolic coronation as the monarch of fashion, but it comes at a bad time. Saint Laurent is trying to recover from a kind of breakdown. He sees a therapist in Paris five times a week and takes a regimen of "calmant" pills, which he unwisely chases with alcohol on occasion. He is now so detached that he regards solitude as "a friend." The burden of putting on four extravaganzas a year-two for haute couture, two for Rive Gauche-for a quarter of a century would seem to justify a sabbatical...
...Saint Laurent is deeply devoted to his professional "family," which includes Bergé, his partner in private as well as business life; Loulou Klossowski, an associate who is particularly gifted at choosing accessories; and a few longtime assistants. Saint Laurent blames his depression on ambition and precocious success. Before leaving for New York City, he spoke with TIME Correspondent William Blaylock in his Left Bank mansion. "I never had an adolescence," he said. "I became famous right away, and being shy, I found it difficult to get involved with others. Suffering is a necessary part of the creative process...
...That's not the case with Rive Gauche at all," he laments. "I have to work with factories. I give them a sketch and have to wait twelve to 15 days before I see the result. It's total anguish." One of the pressure points of Saint Laurent's calendar is assembling the Rive Gauche costumes just before a show. With Klossowski at his side, he looks at the models. If the girl interests him, he adds the pendants and handkerchiefs to the costume swiftly, murmuring "Superbe"or "Sublime"to himself. If the model leaves him cold...
...Polish Requiem, a work in progress for vocal quartet and chorus that promises to be a major statement, both musically and politically, when it is finished some time next year. And last week in Paris, Seiji Ozawa presided over the world premiere of Olivier Messiaen's first opera, Saint François d'Assise, which is clearly intended to crown the 75-year-old Messiaen's career...