Word: saints
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Dates: during 1950-1959
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Swarming into Paris last week for the spring collections, fashion writers and buyers had a single sentimental question: How would the house of Dior do without Dior? It hardly seemed possible that shy, spectacled Yves Saint-Laurent, only 21, would have the master's touch. But after weeks of work and a $200,000 outlay, Saint-Laurent was more than ready...
...third model sashayed out, sudden applause for the new Dior line crashed through the cream-and-gilt rooms. It kept up for two more hours and 175 more models. Cries of "bravo, bravo!" broke out at the finale, a model marching by in a bridal gown. When Saint-Laurent himself appeared, mothered by his two weeping associates, Mme. Raymonde and Mme. Marguerite, the blushing youth was mobbed. Reporters squeezed his hand, kissed his cheeks, pushed him to an outside balcony, where he waved royally to a cheering crowd below...
Even the world's sharp-eyed buyers, no wasters of emotion, though they loved Dior, rose as one to give Saint-Laurent a standing ovation. "One of the great Dior collections," exulted Bergdorf Goodman's Andrew Goodman. Said astute Marie-Louise Bousquet, Harper's Bazaar's oldest Paris hand: "If the colossus of Dior had crumbled, it would have shaken French fashion to its foundations...
Living Death. The results might have been even more impressive if the librettist had written the score instead of the book. The librettist (and stage director): Composer Gian Carlo (The Saint of Bleecker Street) Menotti, who writes the words for his own rousing operas, this time undertook to serve as librettist to his longtime friend Sam Barber. Menotti's yarn is like a pulse-bumping 19th century melodrama that lacks the courage of its afflictions. The lover, when he finally arrives, is not the man Vanessa was waiting for, but his son Anatol, a fatally charming young...
Particularly delightful is the love interest--a peasant girl (the sexless Russian ideal of beauty), sees a soldier (who leers in reply). She says "A Russian saint," grabs a rifle and joins the heroic defenders...