Word: sakhaliners
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...place to go is Russian Kitchen, or Slavianka in Russian, in the center of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Found directly across the street from the not-so-secret offices of the secret police, it is reputed to be Sakhalin's best restaurant. Diners come from as far away as the northernmost town of Okha, and the venue is fast gaining fame among tourists...
...Most of Sakhalin's other eateries feature white plastic chairs and Formica tabletops. Russian Kitchen offers a softly lit interior accented with ornate Russian trim. Traditional copper cooking implements, paintings and woodwork adorn the walls; the overall impression is that of a Russian country inn where the landed gentry would gather. What truly sets it apart, however, is its food. Sure, all the standard Russian favorites?caviar, borscht, chicken kiev?are available. But the signature dishes spring from Sakhalin's abundant bounty of fresh seafood, game, fruits and vegetables. Start with an appetizer of scallops bathed in a mustard sauce...
Walk On The Wild Side Beyond Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, much of Sakhalin remains sparsely inhabited?a little traveled wilderness of emerald mountains, rocky coastlines and tranquil inland rivers teeming with salmon. Wildlife ranges from foxes, bears, sable and reindeer in the interior to marine bird colonies, seals and sea lions on the coast. It's possible to see them in the same day. The island's undeveloped state means that getting to the wilderness is half the excitement, though it requires stamina and the will to drive yet another hour up the rutted mud strip before...
...Intourist provides a wide range of trips into Sakhalin's interior, an area few non-Russians have ever seen. Activities include visiting indigenous tribes and, for Russo-Japanese War buffs, the 50th parallel, the former demarcation line between Russian-held northern Sakhalin and Japanese-controlled southern Sakhalin...
...from town brings the adventurous to the Bolshevik Mountains visible from Gagarin Park. There, hip-high wildflowers in full bloom come close to overpowering visitors with their intoxicating scents, a welcome change from the dusty streets of Yuzhno. For those who would rather hunt wildlife than simply admire it, Sakhalin has large brown bear and Manchurian deer populations. Autumn is the main hunting season, and permits for firearms are available through Intourist. It also arranges a five-day fishing trip on the Chamga River during the salmon spawning season, all-inclusive for about $750. For those with a bigger budget...