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...pork) and Jamaican meat patties, the chef at Manhattan's Sugar Reef also dishes up the aptly named but pallid "trendy wrapped fish" (perch cooked in banana leaves). At the Sugar Shack in Los Angeles, Cuban Moors and Christians (black beans and white rice) are offered with Caesar salad. The Indigo Coastal Grill in Atlanta adds Mexican carnitas and seviche...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: It's A Tropical Heat Wave | 8/31/1987 | See Source »

There was chokingly sweet carrot butter, which the manufacturer claimed makes men think "they have died and gone to heaven." Also sour-sweet and metallic- tasting salad dressings "designed" by Gloria Vanderbilt and fool-the-eye chocolate Buffalo chicken wings packed with a container of blue-cheese dip. Something called Cowboy Caviar, made in California, was based on an old recipe for a Russian eggplant appetizer; and Le Brut d'Escargot, from France, proved to be ghostly, ghastly white snail's eggs that tasted like salty paregoric...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: Fancy Is as Fancy Does | 7/27/1987 | See Source »

Other beguilements included ham, salami, cheese and dozens of honeyed mustards, which, along with the oozing emulsions that passed for salad dressings, were the most characteristic products of the show. Many tasters found la dolce vita by way of ricotta-filled pastry by the Cannoli Factory, and most headed for the booth of Paron Chocolatier to see the first-prize winner among new products (awarded by the show's sponsor, the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade). A visit to Paron meant risking sugar shock because the blue-ribbon concoction turned out to be Eve's Revenge, an obscene...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: Fancy Is as Fancy Does | 7/27/1987 | See Source »

There were many displays offering salads ready-made for restaurants and food stores, to stock their "homemade" salad bars. Can't Budge Fudge zapped peanut butter with chocolate for a truly throat-clutching effect, and the Beverly Hills Confection Collection dished up samples of brittle with rancid- tasting peanuts. Everywhere were products for the health- and diet- conscious: "lo" in salt, sugar, calories and fat, and "lite," meaning anything one wanted it to. Sweet, as usual, seemed to be the top flavor. Perhaps as Americans give up salt, they reach for sugar, figuring that one gritty white seasoning...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: Fancy Is as Fancy Does | 7/27/1987 | See Source »

...recalled mainly by the sobriquet Boss. But Novelist Morris Renek knows that the bulbous, corrupt Tammany Hall leader was not merely a caricaturist's dream. He was an authentic 19th century figure with plans and desires -- not all of them villainous. Bread and Circus imagines Tweed in his salad days, graduating from modest alderman to urban caliph. The campaigner swiftly learns to deny himself nothing, devouring vast meals, acquiring power at the expense of the citizenry, puffing like a beached whale as he sports in the percales with a period piece named Augusta Cordell, estrous wife of a society figure...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Books: Summer Reading | 7/27/1987 | See Source »

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