Word: samuelsson
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...variety and bounty of Scandinavian foods. Kitchen of Light (Artisan, $35) by Norwegian TV cooking-show host Andreas Viestad, already a surprise best seller, has been joined on bookshelves this month by Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine (Houghton Mifflin, $45) by James Beard-award-winning chef Marcus Samuelsson...
Born in Ethiopia, Samuelsson was orphaned at age 3 by a tuberculosis epidemic in his homeland. He and his elder sister were adopted by a Swedish couple and grew up in the port city of Gothenburg. Samuelsson began cooking when he was about 6 at the side of his Swedish grandmother, Helga Jonsson. "I learned the most about food from my grandmother," he says. "Her world completely revolved around food." After a stint at culinary school, followed by work in kitchens throughout Europe, Samuelsson became executive chef at New York City's sleek Aquavit in 1995 when he was only...
Aquavit's fare, primarily seafood and game, is Scandinavian, but the preparation and presentation are distinctively Chef Marcus Samuelsson's, acquired on a career journey that has carried him to Paris and through Latin America. Many dishes are served on a block of translucent glass that looks like ice. One is tuna accompanied by horseradish sorbet, colder and more crystalline than the traditional horseradish in cream. Among our other favorites were a soup of sea urchin, seared foie gras and watermelon; and hot smoked arctic char with octopus, mushroom, buckwheat ragout and duck consomme...
Ultimately, the film is about relationships, their formation and dissolution. The most touching of these is between Eva (Emma Samuelsson), Elisabeth’s 13 year-old daughter, and Frederik (Henrik Lundstrom), the son of the very bourgeois family across the street. They first bond over having exactly the same glasses prescription and grow closer over what they share: both are outcasts, both just want to belong, both believe, as Eva states, that “all adults are stupid.” The film succeeds because it allows them to think that and does not force them to choose...
...producers of caviar from pen-raised sturgeon, led by the pioneering Stolt Sea Farm of Elverta, Calif. But do the texture and taste measure up? We asked the executive chefs of two of New York City's top seafood restaurants--Rick Moonen of Oceana, pictured, and Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit--to sample unmarked servings of Russian Osetra caviar and Sterling Classic brand, produced by Stolt Sea Farm. Neither could tell the difference. "The quality of the farm-raised caviar has increased," says Moonen. "They can rival some caviars coming from the Caspian." And the domestic eggs are a bargain...