Word: sandering
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...Sander, who lives in a Hamburg mansion filled with minimalist art, describes her design philosophy as "less and luxe." She favors spare lines and expensive fabrics; she eschews loud colors and elaborate prints; she loathes accessories. She grew up in a modest Hamburg suburb and has said her taste developed in reaction to the kitsch and consumerism that dominated postwar Germany. "Ever since I was young, I would look at a woman and think she could look much classier, much more powerful, sophisticated and elegant," she says. "That's what always counted for me, not that obviousness that...
...contempt for the overt has led observers to compare her to that other purveyor of modern simplicity, Giorgio Armani -- an analogy Sander rejects. "I'm happy he exists," she says, "because he brought a minimalist vision of fashion compared with, say, Chanel or Versace. But I feel far away from him; these are two different concepts." In fact, Sander's style is even more spartan than Armani's, her palette even narrower; her detractors would argue that her look is far more severe and somber. "She is one of those designers other designers laugh at," says Joan Weinstein...
...Sander has attracted an appreciative following ever since she launched her first collection in 1974, but for years she remained a marginal figure. Her early collections, first shown in Hamburg, were not tremendously well received, and when she unveiled a collection in Paris for the first time in the late '70s, her clothes were ignored. So she left the competitive French couture scene ("I didn't want to get killed," she says) and returned to Hamburg, where she continued to study design and showed her collections to small, invitation-only groups of buyers and press...
...coterie of loyalists expanded considerably once affluent women began to reject the gold-chain-belt opulence of the 1980s. "Nothing gives me more pleasure than to see that they 'get it,"' says Sander, who often speaks with missionary zeal for her aesthetic. "I see so many people following, and that's such a nice thing. You see they are getting better taste, better culture; they understand why something doesn't have to be seen from 100 meters away." Says Martha Stewart of her Sander wardrobe: "Jil's responded to the needs of people like me. I'm busy; I travel...
...Sander is not one of those designers whose participation in the process of making clothes ends when they have made a sketch. A former student of textile engineering, she insists on controlling all the details of manufacturing, and has invented fabrics like wool velvet and wool linen. She tries on every item in her collection before it is sent to stores and has been known to delay or refuse shipments of pieces that are not perfectly executed to her specifications. To keep her production schedules on target and to make sure - there isn't anything lacking in her line, Sander...