Word: schiaparelli
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Favorite designer of many U. S. dress buyers is Elsa Schiaparelli, daughter of an Italian archaeologist, niece of an Italian astronomer, whose passion for curious buttons, hooks, clamps, clips and other fastenings has had a more direct influence on women's clothes than that of any other modern designer...
...favorite creation at the recent Schiaparelli winter opening was a black cocktail dress with shortish skirt, black rose-shaped buttons, a high V neck and lips of bright red floss embroidered on the pockets of the short jacket. Mrs. Reginald Fellowes, leader of London's cafe set and onetime friend of the Duke of Windsor, liked it and bought it. So last week did Mrs. Charles Crocker of Manhattan; Mrs. D. J. Sayman of St. Louis; Mrs. Herbert Mavre of Glencoe, Ill.; Mme Alfira de Riglos of Buenos Aires; Mrs. Charles Hanna of Cairo; Mlle Jean Mastbaum of Paris...
...attend the official autumn & winter openings of the great dress houses, openings that came so thick & fast that exhausted buyers had scarcely time for more than a foot bath, a glass of tea and a herring between engagements all week long. At the most popular house of all, Schiaparelli, on the Place Vendôme, department store executives who had crossed the U. S. and the Atlantic for no other purpose were glad to perch on a stair rail or the edge of a chromium table to peek at the new models...
...hewn of pinkish beige plaster, some as disproportioned as surrealism. Barely practical are the clothes shown by Paris conservatives such as Alix, Worth and Lelong. Scorning plaster women, Lanvin has draped two gowns of medieval inspiration and some handsome furs on a gigantic horse and an heraldic lion. Rebel Schiaparelli, outdoing even this, has flung a plaster female stark naked.* bottom down on a beach rug of artificial flowers, tossed the costume on a beach chair. Since such capers by the aristocrats of haute couture are not intended to please everyone, Paris' great department store Le Louvre is handy...
Looking over their notebooks, American fashion scouts had to admit last week that after nearly ten years the most important designer in Paris remains Elsa Schiaparelli, Italian-born daughter of a onetime Dean of the University of Rome and long-time resident in New York's Greenwich Village. Because he designs all the clothes for the Duchess of Kent as well as Mrs. Ernest Simpson's sport outfits, the next most important designer of 1937 is thoroughly British Captain Edward Henry Molyneux. Though Designer Molyneux looks, talks and acts like a dressmaker, he fought straight through the World...