Word: schuman
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Manhattan's Hattie Carnegie, for one, was tempted to go along with Dior. Other buyers were uncertain or hostile. Snapped Adolph Schuman, president of San Francisco's Lilli Ann Corp.: "The psychology of the American woman is not ready for a change." Bergdorf Goodman's Andrew Goodman cabled his New York office to ignore the change. Carmel Snow of Harper's Bazaar, the doyenne of U.S. fashion arbiters, supported him. Said she: "Perfectly marvelous publicity for Dior, but you can't find any woman who wants skirts riding up around her knees...
...Composer William Schuman combined his two major interests in this baseball opera which had its world premiere in Hartford...
Three Rules. Schuman got the idea for his plan six years ago, when he astounded Paris dressmakers by putting on a style show right in their midst. He wanted to use fine French, Swiss and Italian cloth in his $120 suits and coats, but found that it was too expensive. Reason for its high price was that European textile mills were accustomed to making a large number of weaves in small quantities at high unit cost. "The high prices," says Lilli Ann's Schuman, "were not caused by high labor costs but by lack of planned, consecutive production...
...Schuman showed European weavers how to modernize their methods, then placed orders with six mills for their entire output during certain months. The success of the whole plan, he believed, would depend on three rules: 1) buy abroad only what can not be obtained in the U.S.; 2) buy only in areas where the cloth has been made by craftsmen for years (i.e., broadcloth in Normandy, worsteds in northern France); 3) insist that mills pay at least 75? an hour to their employees...
Copycats. Under the plan, Schuman has imported $2,225,000 worth of European fabrics in the last 16 months. He estimates that he has created steady employment for 2,400 European textile workers, and has produced a $1,200,000 payroll increase in France alone. It has also paid off in another way. By applying U.S. mass-production methods, Schuman's suppliers are able to weave top-quality cloth for him at $2 to $4 less a yard than the European wholesale price. The plan has also added $3,700,000 in new business to Schuman's gross...