Word: seafoods
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...large communal dining table just outside, where vintages beckon from wall-mounted racks. (Should you be up for a real debauch, this space can be hired as a private dining venue.) However, it would be a shame not to head back to the Press Room for its superior seafood platters and steaks. I was just able to tear myself away for the latter, but afterwards worked through two cheeseboards that Siegel had thoughtfully prepared, plus the two half-glasses of wine that were the sum total of drink I had that evening. And I really mean two half-glasses. When...
...three days on Sao Tome were punctuated by a series of happy, soporific encounters. The man sitting next to me at the only Internet caf? in town turned out to be the son of a famous dissident. At an excellent Portuguese seafood restaurant, I met Alecio Costa, a former mercenary who'd staged a coup in 2003 and held power for a week before, you know, realizing he really couldn't be bothered to exercise it, and giving it back. I roused the head of the National Petroleum Agency from his siesta and interviewed him as he sat bare-chested...
...lobsters sacrificed live, martyrs to gastronomic ecstasy. There's even a smoked ice cream, made by first cooking milk over the coals. Etxebarri is one of only two restaurants I know that buys live angulas (baby eels) and makes them worth their exorbitant price. The delicacy of the seafood courses proves that less can be oh-so-much more, but all flame tamers are pulled off for the chuletón, the king of steaks. Arguinzoniz swears by the complex, marbled meat of retired Galician milk cows, fattened for slaughter until they resemble Kobe beef but with richer flavor...
...these are excursions to islands lying close off shore, boat trips with local fishermen or tours of nearby Bokor National Park. Yoga classes, meditation sessions and Khmer massage are available. There's also an expansive sea-facing infinity pool. The French cuisine (with a Khmer touch) uses fresh local seafood and produce and is superb. Menus are drawn up in consultation with guests, and meals are served on terraces or in the open-air dining pavilion. The communal areas at Knai Bang Chatt are appointed with a mix of Art Deco ornaments and furniture and Khmer bronzes sourced by Vervoordt...
...competition requires each chef, aided by an assistant, to complete two platters of food, one featuring a meat course (Bresse chicken, this year), the other showcasing seafood (Norwegian white halibut and king crab), and three side dishes--all sufficient for 14 servings--within just a 5 1/2-hr. period. The food is judged on presentation and, of course, taste. Competitors train for the cooking challenge with the single-minded discipline usually found in élite athletes. For Kaysen, this means heading to the kitchen on his day off to sharpen skills like butchering a whole chicken. He began practicing...