Word: seafoods
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INMAN SQUARE IS RAPIDLY becoming an ethnic roto-sampler, with restaurant offerings ranging from the queasy combination of "Pizza and Seafood" to more fashionably exotic offerings like Thai and Korean. The recent Southbound yuppie trend has also swept through Inman Square, depositing yet another Cajun place in its spicy wake. But amidst these rising ethnic stars is a less media-glutted food group. The savory and homey seafood smorgasbord of Portuguese food, which is not the sub-division of Spanish or Mexican many people assume it is, can be found at the Casa Portugal...
...entrepreneurs: Take advantage of those incapacitated couples so devoted they will invest in any Valentine's Day gimmick. Sell Valentine's Day Dinners at the Union. Couples could choose from sedate Seafood Salad Sweetheart plates or the more daring Luscious Lasagne Lover meals. Don't forged to stick a cherry-flavored Valentine " sucker" on top of each dish...
...some style by way of jalapeno peppers, tenderizes and flavors broiled duck with a ginger-and-wine-vinegar marinade and imparts a herbaceous Provence fragrance to the lowly blowfish. Clams in black bean sauce, beef stew in a pumpkin, and mousse of sea scallops are among the showier offerings. Seafood cookery and baking are his specialties; the first is the feature of his own restaurant in ^ Greenwich Village, and the second is the way he originally earned his high reputation...
...Equitable Center. Le Bernardin is run by the brother-and-sister team of Gilbert (the chef) and Maguy (the hostess) Le Coze, owners of the Paris original. Their Manhattan Bernardin is extravagantly expensive (dinner for two with wine can easily cost $150), offering generally good but disappointingly unvaried seafood (often cooked unappetizingly rare) and perfunctory service. Such shortcomings have not discouraged a host of devotees that includes several influential food critics. Among Le Coze's better dishes is the poached halibut with a warm vinaigrette dressing. Less appealing is monkfish with cabbage and bacon, which muffles the fish...
Growth has jolted Orange's traditional complacency. Bill Hamilton, who went home to California to retire but instead opened a seafood restaurant in Orange, compares the mood to "gold-rush fever." Says Stockbroker Trevor Spruston: "The atmosphere challenges everyone's drive." It also encourages second starts, says Alan Rypinski. He made one fortune producing a protective coating for vinyl and rubber called Armor All, stumbled financially with an auto boutique and a fast-food spaghetti business, and is now trying to pile up another bundle selling a product that removes wrinkles from fabric. Says Rypinski: "It's pretty easy...