Word: seamwork
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...trade, not everyone has heard his name. For Norell is concerned with style, not the spotlight, and with grace, not gimmicks. Never fussy without purpose, his talent lies in taste and a discriminating eye, in a flair for fabric and a sense of color, in a subtle bit of seamwork, an intricate set of pleats, a bead, a button, some spangles, a feather. Norell is neither set in his ways, like Mainbocher, nor out to amaze like Rudi Gernreich (of the topless-suit Gernreichs). He is a fashion moderate in step with the day, inventive but practical, inspired but patient...
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