Word: seodaemun
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That complex, known as Seodaemun under the Japanese who built it in 1907 to incarcerate Korean independence fighters, and where Ko spent much time for his leading role in protests against successive military governments in the 1970s and '80s, has been turned into a museum of horrors, a red-brick Grand Guignol of simulated torture chambers as chilling as Tuol Sleng in Phnom Penh or Changi in Singapore. To visit is upsetting but essential if you're to see Korea the Ko Un way - that is, an experience of harmonious extremes, a bracing yin and yang of Buddhas and booze...
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