Word: seoul
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...Insadong, a quiet corner of Seoul perhaps best known for its small art galleries, is full of such back-alley teahouses. Their d?cor is often as odd as their names, and they offer more teas than you can shake a stuffed carp at. Try The New Old Teashop, which boasts uncaged birds, an oversized chameleon, and a monkey that likes rice crackers. My personal favorite is the Moon Bird Does Not Only Think of the Moon Teashop, where your infusion comes with complimentary yakgwa, traditional honey cakes...
...Insadong has been a retreat of artists and writers since the days of the Korean monarchy. With the rapid development of Seoul, however, many of its traditional structures came under threat. Over the past few decades, old-style Korean homes called hanok?open courtyards surrounded by living quarters?were systematically demolished to make way for more modern buildings. The quiet, meandering roads became scarred with constant construction. In an effort to halt Insadong's slow death, Seoul made it an historic district in 1994. Today, Koreans and foreigners alike come for tea and a browse through the studios and shops...
...TAKE A HIKE In Seoul, where exercise tends to consist of the occasional sprint to catch an incoming subway, and seclusion is what you find in the private compartments of a noraebang, or karaoke parlor, Namsan?South Mountain?is a quick fix for the nature-starved. The mountain's ribbon of concrete steps may seem daunting at first, but you'll soon find your rhythm. Exertions on a Stairclimber are never rewarded with a panorama of Seoul...
...Today, Namsan's 1,000-odd steps are as frequented by Spandex-clad runners as by lapdog-toting ajumas, older Korean women, and retired gentlemen with their newspapers. From the summit of Namsan the megalopolis of Seoul sprawls before you. The historic part of town, with its complex of royal palaces, lies at the mountain's base just to the north, while to the south the Han River glitters on its way to the port of Incheon and the Yellow Sea. And just below, nestled in a sea of greenery, is a reminder of South Korea's unenviable honor...
...found that Pastor Im Gi Yun, called in for questioning by military intelligence in 1980 because he was involved in a pro-democracy group, died from beatings and torture, not high blood pressure, as the military maintained. Another tragedy involved Choi Jong Gil, a law professor at the prestigious Seoul University. According to the KCIA, Choi jumped out of a seventh floor window at the agency's headquarters in 1973 rather than disclose details of a spy ring in South Korea. The commission determined that Choi died under torture or was thrown out of a window. For Hur Yong Chun...