Word: shan
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...found themselves in London with a yearning for northern Chinese food used to have a hard time, given that the vast majority of Chinese restaurants in the British capital - run by southerners from Guangdong and Hong Kong - served mediocre approximations of it at best. The opening of Ba Shan, in Soho's Romilly Street, will therefore please purists...
Serving xiao chi - small dishes inspired by the street food of Sichuan, Henan and Shaanxi provinces - Ba Shan is the newest venture from Shao Wei (who helped pioneer authentic Sichuan cooking in London with his Soho restaurant Bar Shu). It has been put together in consultation with food author Fuchsia Dunlop, the first Westerner to graduate from the Sichuan Culinary Institute. "My role is to mediate between Western taste sensibility and Chinese authenticity without compromising on delicious and diverse tastes," she says. (See pictures of Beijing...
...mind-numbingly hot dishes are there if one wants them. But most of the dishes on Ba Shan's long menu are a harmonious mix of sweet, sour, salty, woody and zesty. As appetizers, try the aromatic preserved radishes with sesame, the cucumber salad with scorched chili and Sichuan pepper, the "good luck" rolls of chicken and nori, and the crisp broad beans with "fish fragrant sauce" ("actually pickled chili, ginger, garlic, spring onion, vinegar and sugar," explains Dunlop). Segue to a mesmerizing array of delicate dumplings (the wrappers are made fresh each day in the kitchen and are fetchingly...
...longest wait for a table in Taiwan is at a restaurant run by a man who says he can't cook. This may be because Shi Yang Shan Fang, tel: (886-2) 2217 7875, is far more than a dining venue. "I really don't possess the techniques that take Chinese chefs a decade to learn - that's why most everything I serve is steamed or dipped, which makes it healthy," claims chef and founder Lin Ping-hui. A former property developer, Lin these days adheres to what he terms the ancient Chinese lifestyle of "humility and cultivating beauty from...
...year-old Lin moved to the hills in 2003. Ever since, Shi Yang Shan Fang (attracting around 100 diners on weekdays, double on weekends) has been booked solid, with some customers reserving three months early. Served on knee-high tables amid found-wood sculptures, the lunches and dinners are dazzling, multicourse medleys of organic vegetables and whimsical tidbits - delicate molds of peanut tofu alternating with abalone on mashed potato; cups of herring, pumpkin and lotus root; baskets of raw corn, edible flowers and salmon eggs; slow-boiled medicinal soups; and passion-fruit compotes. These dishes are punctuated with palate-refreshing...