Word: sheratons
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...cover story this week on the growing interest in American cooking, Sheraton gave free rein to her love of dining. She traveled to a dozen cities, sampling gastronomic delights in New Orleans, Houston, Chicago, Philadelphia and Boonville, Calif. There are occasional drawbacks, of course, even to a job as appetizing as Sheraton's. "You eat a lot of terrible food," she says, "and put up with a lot of miserable service." What makes it worse is that she can't com plain without jeopardizing her anonymity...
...sure she is not recognized by maître d's and waiters, Sheraton never makes reservations in her own name. She also declines to be photographed fullface. "So I don't fight back, except of course in my reviews." But critics, Sheraton believes, whether of food or fashion, movies or books, "are willing to put up with the bad for the privilege of doing what they relish for a living...
...Sheraton is enthusiastic about the rise of American cuisine. "It is a sign of maturity, of pride in our own traditions. When a culture is insecure, like the 19th century Russians and like ourselves until recently, it has adopted French food, or an all-purpose Continental cuisine cooked by Swiss chefs. Now Americans have become confident enough to trust their own chefs, just as they have become confident enough to trust their own fashion designers...
...this week's story, which was supervised by Senior Editor Martha Duffy, Sheraton received help from some willing gourmets. San Francisco Bureau Chief William Blaylock, who reported on the California culinary renaissance, had come there straight from that mecca of world-class cuisine, Paris. Says Blaylock: "My appreciation for simpler, 'reborn' American food emerged unhesitatingly, in large part because of my three years of wading through classic cassoulets, terrines and flaming crêpes...
...means we have stopped growing and developing. American food has been developing since the Indians and English Pilgrims first traded recipes. I'd hate to see it stop now." It is to be hoped that he is right, for in confusion there is fun; in diversity, richness. --By Mimi Sheraton. Reported by William Blaylock/Los Angeles and Elizabeth Rudulph/NewYork